Italy
loves pistachios and they are found either whole, crushed or used as a flavour
in a wide variety of products such as gelato, pesto, ravioli, pastries, cream,
sweets and cakes. It seems to pervade every aspect of Italian cuisine and well
it might as it has been in the country for probably more than a thousand years.
In fact until relatively recently pistachios were grown and exported from Sicily
mainly in the Bronte region and around the world-famous Etna volcano.
This love affair with the noble nut, often draped in the
colour of emperors, probably dates back to the time of the Phoenicians or
perhaps the earliest Greek, way back in the annals of time. But once the Arabs
took control of these nut trees, during the ninth century, production really
increased and everyone developed a taste for these tasty treasures many of us
still crave today.
Originally you would find Pistachios grown in India
and throughout Central Asia, the Middle East
and all along the eastern Mediterranean. Therefore it
wasn’t too difficult to see why Sicily
should have joined this exclusive club and become world famous for her own
production.
Sicilian pistachios though are somewhat different to other
varieties as they are slightly longer and a tad thinner than those found in Iran
and Iraq. The
Sicilian pistachios also undergo savage pruning every two years, a practice
which is said to date back to the Arab Saracens who really improved nut
production a thousand years ago. They had good reason to improve their harvest
as pistachios have always been a mainstay of many sweet confections. When it is
mixed with cane sugar it produces the perfect, sickly and delicious pastry
treats we know and savour even now.
The volcanic soils around Etna have contributed to the
Sicilian pistachio being slightly more robust than its Middle Eastern cousin,
certainly the taste is much sharper. However, not that many people outside Italy
know this fact as pistachios are not exported in great numbers. Neither the
Italian government or the EU offers the kind of financial
helping hand olive farmers receive.
Therefore, as you can well imagine, this impacts considerably on the
numbers of farmers who wish to grow and sell these nuts.
Added to financial constraints, they are often bedevilled
with cultivation problems such as lack of water and the slightly temperamental
qualities of Pistachio trees in general. It is generally considered that on the
whole, almonds fare much better in the Sicilian climate and therefore are far
more available bearing in mind the reputation
pistachios have as being just that little bit more challenging and risky
too. Sicilian drought conditions also contribute to the fact production has
fallen.
Still that doesn’t stop them appearing all over the country
in one form or another. Pistachios make a lively substitute for pine nuts in a
pesto, for example and are used to give texture to rice dishes and also go well
as a snack when toasted while sitting in an Italian bar watching a sunset.
They have health properties too and offer an effective
source of protein, thiamine and Vitamin B6 but that can be willingly destroyed
when mixed up with eggs and cream to form a regal Italian ice cream.
If you want to learn more about Italian ingredients and
really understand process and passion then why not undertake a Flavours Cooking holiday in 2013 and come home enthused. Check out the results of
two Flavours aficionados and their Taste of
Sicily book they produced on the back of their inspirational experience.
1 comment:
Right ! I wish I could be there…. In the meantime, I am just pinning the pictures …
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