Cooking holidays and wine tasting in Puglia

Puglia is the region which comprises what we could call the heel of Italy’s boot, situated in the country’s south east corner and extending out into the Mediterranean Sea. The region is generally very hot, with flat ground and constant breezes through the Salento peninsula. With these conditions, it’s unsurprising that Puglia is considered one of the country’s prime spots for agriculture.

When we imagine the picturesque Italian countryside, we’ll often picture acres of lush fields basking under a golden sun. The real Puglia isn’t far from this, and unsurprisingly, Puglia produces 70% of all olives and a majority of the pasta for the entire country. On top of this, the fertile ground and optimum weather conditions make Puglia a hot spot for the growing of grapes. 

Puglia is world famous for the production of wine, with 17% of the entire world’s supply originating in this region. Puglia was originally seen as a place to grow grapes inexpensively, which would then be added to low quality wine from elsewhere to provide substance. However, a change in perspectives and practices over the past two decades has seen a resurgence in the production of high quality red’s and rosé’s.

White wines typically take a back seat in Puglia, with the dark Negroamaro and Primitivo grapes proving to be most popular. Negroamaro is literally translated as “Blackest of the black”, based on the Greek and Latin languages of the region’s early inhabitants. Almost exclusively grown in Puglia and the Salento peninsula, the grape resist drought well and produces large bunches. The grapes themselves are thick-skinned and dark red in colour, leading to the characteristic dark colour of the region’s wines. 

Alongside being used in mono-varietal products like Graticciaia, on certain wines Negroamaro is also found as the dominant grape of a blend. You may have previously tried Notarpanaro, which is a mix of Negroamaro and Mlavasia Nera, or Divoto, in which it is mixed with Montepulciano. Negroamaro contributes towards wines which are both red and rosé, still and frizzante. This means that regardless of your individual preferences, the chances are that you can experience the unique taste of this most celebrated of Puglia’s grapes.

Puglia’s other famous grape is the Primitivo, which is named so due to its quick ripening process. The Primitivo is genetically identical to the Zinfandel grape, which has been cultivated heavily in California since the 18^th century. With a comparatively high sugar content, the Primitivo is renowned for sweet and full-bodied tastes, with the potential for alcohol content to surpass 15%. Wines like Primitivo di Manduria and Dunico are manufactured exclusively from Puglia’s Primitivo grape, but mixes are also available, like the Amativo with is a 60-40 blend with Negroamaro.

Have you ever experienced the picturesque scenery of Puglia? Do you have a favourite wine from the region, and is it made from either Negroamaro or Primitivo?

My Cooking Holiday in Puglia Has Transformed My Christmas!

Well, well, it’s that time of year when you can literally concentrate on splashing out on a bottle of wine with a certain level of ‘seasonal impunity’.

Let me just state, I am being extremely organised this year and thinking about what Italian wines I intend to drink with my Italian themed culinary extravaganza (more of that in another post) You may be wondering why this has come to pass; suffice to say the influence of a Flavours cooking holiday in Puglia has yet to wear off and having managed to bring back some gorgeous olive oil and a head full of ideas I have decided to continue the experimentation, begun back in July.

We are so lucky to be well catered for these days in terms of wine and on any high street you are likely to find examples of Italy’s finest. I have decided to lay off the stalwarts and try something slightly different, ahem, I am going to spend a little more but the intention is to drink less. If you join me on a Flavours Pilates holiday next year I will whisper gently in your ear whether I succeeded or not!

So, to begin, I have been scurrying all over the internet and discovered a couple of internet vendors who have just what I am looking for. A Chardonnay will go well with the Baccalà I have in mind (Flavours takes the sniffiness out of salt cod) and the wine I like the sound of is made in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region. Chardonnay Colli Orientali del Friuli D.O.C. is the name (sounds like some rugged, curly haired Italian film star).Its colour is that deep straw hue, a kind of balance between gold and the lightest and greeny-yellow olive oil shade.

The smell of fresh hay is always evocative of seasons past and therefore you can expect a fresh and incredibly intense hit of harvest and fruit in this wine. I think it will cut through cheese nicely too. This is available from ‘wine explicit’ which is dedicated to professionals but I’m sure there’s a way around that.

Waitrose can also be relied on to save the Prosccutio, as it were. I can recommend Waitrose Chianti Classico Barone Ricasoli which is made in Tuscany and is of the Sangiovese variety. This wine is full bodied and sensuously velvety, with just that necessary tannin quality and a hint of the summer’s deepest crimson cherries. You know the mix between slightly acidic and overly ripe fruit you will find in any punnet. A twang of spice, like crushed peppercorns, further accentuates a sour sweet note which will complement the festive season perfectly; you know what I mean!

My other recommendation has to be St Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio made in Alto Adige. I like this aromatic wine as it partners seafood so charmingly. Scallops, (ooh don’t start me), squid or any Asian influence you might like to add will be intensified by the citrusy hints and quite intense pear flavour. It is cool and resonant of the landscape of production: northern Italy where it is cooler and more mountainous. This wine is exclusive to Waitrose and is on special offer until the end of this year, so plenty of time to stock up by mail order. Whilst you are at it why not check out the last minute cookery holidays on the Flavours website and spend New Year on a Sicilian New Year break.

Marks and Spencer, on the other hand, is offering a case of six Prosecco which is a sparkling wine filled with an appley, aromatic flavour and packed with a fruity punch that is both dry and sparkling, unlike a Christmas afternoon where everyone has unzipped their trousers and collapsed on the sofa in front of the tv (or is that just my uncouth household?) Still, if you are an eternal optimist the floral notes will lift your socialising efforts; this Prosecco will do the trick and reminds me very much a crisp winter holiday in Tuscany.

Served chilled, it will augment your canapés and function as the perfect aperitif and was also a Daily Telegraph recommendation

I cannot let the opportunity to recommend a dessert wine pass me by so roll up Moscatel De Valencia 2011. This is the business and once again Marks and Spencer takes the Amaretti! This wine is not expensive, coming in at under £7 per bottle and won a bronze medal at the Decanter world wine awards in 2012. I can see why. The old fashioned cloying sweetness (which I have to admit I really love) has been replaced rather spectacularly by a pale citrus, pale lemon zing and this combination lemon and grapes is divine. When you know how fragrant and sensational both fruits are in Italy there is no surprise here; the wine is delightful. It’s clean and crisp and with a semi freddo type confection, you know, something unctuous and scrummy, this wine will cut through the cream and sugar in a delightfully sophisticated manner.

Moscatel grapes are my favourite and not many made it into the vat when I was picking this year. Still we are already drinking this year’s slightly fizzy red and very refreshing it is too.

Hope you manage to find these wines and a Flavours last minute break before everyone else does!