The wild boar runs free over
Europe and like it or loathe it, the animal is still hunted with much vim and
vigour. Hunting and foraging is a theme that runs through the Italian calendar
and psyche; wild
boar meat is also highly prized.
boar meat is also highly prized.
There is a very lively
population of boar these days, roaming the Italian countryside. This is mainly
because there are far fewer people on the land, an exodus having begun a few
years after the end of the Second World War.
If you happen to be in Tuscany
during the wild boar season, which usually runs from late Autumn through the
winter, typically the 1st of November until the very end of January,
you can be part of the chase. Hunting seasons however, varies depending where
you are in the country. In Umbria dates are different and should be checked
before you book a flight.
You might imagine the boar
hunt is a family affair and you would be correct. Once again it is a valid
excuse for a picnic and a convivial gathering. It certainly gives many a
reminder of life on the land as they hunt an animal, a predecessor to the
domestic pig.
As much as people can be
sentimental about a hunt, the wild boar is actually causing lots of damage
right now. Both farmers and wine producers are complaining bitterly at what can
happen when a wild boar comes a-visiting overnight; thousands of euros worth of
damage to be precise so the stakes are very high.
For those who baulk at the
idea of shooting their own food, it is possible to buy wild boar and there are
a number of recipes which make delicious use of this tasty meat. If you have
ever been lucky enough to experience Italian cooking classes with Flavours you
will have already developed a natural affinity with traditional Italian
ingredients alongside the knowledge of what to do with different cuts of meat
etc.
In fact there are four
different types of boar meat available in Italian butchers and you choose your
dishes depending on what is available at the time.
- Piglet
- Young boar
- Juvenile boar
- Adult
These are the four types and
piglets will provide loin or chops and even a leg. The type of cooking suited
is very quick and a session under the grill, on the barbecue or the oven will
do it proud.
The youngster requires a
little marinade although even here the loin may be roasted.
As the boar ages, the meat
should always be marinated for longer and most chefs favour the moist heat
method to ensure tenderness and succulence.
I guess one of my favourite
ways of dealing with wild boar, unless I choose a Portuguese dish, is the
Italian Cinghiale in Salsa Agrodolce which dates back from the time of the holy
wars where Crusaders brought back knowledge of Middle Eastern culinary arts and
the use of a sweet sour taste.
Interestingly this recipe
exploits a contemporary mix of chocolate and sugar. With our newly discovered
passion for chilli chocolate you can begin to see the possibilities of
chocolate and boar meat.
First of all take around a
kilogram of boar meat and rub it with peppercorns, bay leaves and fresh sage
and lay in a deep bowl. The marinade is made by chopping carrot, celery and
onions and sweating them in a pan with oil and butter until they brown
slightly. Then add a bottle of white wine, dry preferably and bring the mixture
to the boil for a couple of minutes. Cool it slightly then pour over the meat.
This mixture should then be
left in a cool place or the fridge and turned a few times while it takes on the
flavourings for 48 hours. Then roast in a metal dish with olive oil and a few
cubes of pancetta. At this point brown slightly on a high heat on the hob, then
add a ladle full of marinade and roast at 180 degrees. You can do this
throughout the cooking process as the liquid evaporates. You are aiming for a
roasting time of around 2 hours.
Meanwhile the sauce is made by
heating a glass of wine to boiling and keeping it very warm. Put 4 heaped
tablespoons of sugar in a pan and heat, stirring all the while until it just
begins to brown and is at the beginning of the caramelisation stage. At this
point pour the wine over the sugar and keep stirring; this should dissolve the
sugar. Then add two tablespoons of good quality dark chocolate which has been
grated and stir until the sauce is silky and creamy. Remove from the heat and
strain some of the juices from the meat and add this to the sauce along with
pine nuts, candied peel and some large raisins.
Serve the boar and either
dowse with the sauce or serve in a dish alongside some green vegetables.
Happy hunting! To embrace
traditional Italian cooking at its best, why not book cooking classes in Italy
with Flavours holidays. Click here for more information.
2 comments:
I loved all the background and history in this article. And I'm curious about the recipe...I've always enjoyed cinghale in a sugo or stew or something, but never with chocolate and chili!
Thanks for postinng this
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